The Soul of the 20th: Edith Piaf and the Secrets of Ménilmontant

1. Born Under a Lamppost? (The Birth Legend)

Legend has it that Edith Piaf was born on the pavement under a gas lamp in front of 72 Rue de Belleville. If you visit today, you’ll see a plaque claiming exactly that. However, historical records (and the 20th's own Hôpital Tenon) suggest she was actually born in the hospital nearby.

The Secret: Locals still prefer the lamppost story. It fits the "street-born" grit of the neighborhood. Regardless of where the birth certificate was signed, her first cries were definitely heard in these steep, winding streets.

2. The Smallest Museum in Paris

Hidden at 5 Rue Crespin du Gast in Paris’s Ménilmontant neighborhood is the Musée Édith Piaf, a tiny private museum run by the Les Amis d’Édith Piaf association in the biographer’s own apartment. It’s open only by appointment, and visitors enter what feels like a personal shrine filled with Piaf memorabilia — from photos and letters to her iconic little black dresses and a pair of Marcel Cerdan’s boxing gloves — offering an intimate, very personal glimpse into the life of France’s beloved chanteuse.

3. The "Village" Hidden in the City

Most people associate the 20th arrondissement with a gritty, lived-in edge — but tucked away near Porte de Bagnolet is La Campagne à Paris, one of the area’s biggest surprises. Built in the early 1900s as affordable housing, this tiny pocket of fewer than 100 houses feels completely removed from the city. Quiet streets, brick façades wrapped in ivy, and small private gardens give it the feel of a provincial village dropped into Paris. It’s low-key, residential, and one of the most unexpected photo spots in the arrondissement.

4. The Last Paris Vineyard?

While Montmartre gets all the “vineyard” glory, the hill of Belleville also has deep wine roots. Vineyards were cultivated here as early as the Middle Ages, and into the 18th century the local wine — called guinguet — was served in taverns and open-air cafes outside the old city walls, giving rise to the famous guinguette culture of festive drinking. Today, remnants of that tradition live on in a small plot of vines planted in Parc de Belleville and in the lively bars and terraces of MÉNILMONTANT.

5. Jim Morrison isn't the only "Rockstar" in Père Lachaise

While crowds still flock to see the Doors’ frontman, the 20th’s local hero remains Édith Piaf. Her grave at PÈRE-LACHAISE CEMETERY is one of the cemetery’s most visited, often surrounded by fresh roses and remembrances. Unlike the fenced-off area sometimes seen at Jim Morrison’s site, Piaf’s resting place feels more open and communal. In the family tomb she shares with her father, her daughter Marcelle (who died in infancy), and her husband Théo Sarapo, Piaf’s legacy continues to draw admirers and tributes from around the world.

Why Move to the 20th?

Living here means trading the "Museum Paris" for the "Living Paris." You get the best sunsets in the city from the Parc de Belleville, the cheapest grocery markets in the city at the Boulevard de Belleville, and a neighborhood where people still know their neighbors' names.

As Piaf famously sang, "Non, je ne regrette rien." If you move to the 20th, you likely won't either.

Planning a move to Paris? Check out our full guide to the 20th Arrondissement in our latest video!

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Photo Credit:

Studio Harcourt, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

Photo by Richard Hedrick on Unsplash